If you are looking for a way to lower your handicap fast, use this idea to help you accomplish a better handicap this month.
Track your scores and stats - Use this - "Free Gibbs Golf Scorecard Tracker"
Then, practice where your stats say you are weak.
If you are not sure about where you are weak, click here to schedule a complimentary golf game analysis with GibbsGolf. Just click on the schedule appointment button and fill out the template.
You must know your strengths and weaknesses in order to know where you can improve the fastest and with the widest margins. While there is no perfect rule for breaking 100, 90 or 80, there are some major statistical keys to look for.
GibbsGolf can help you find those weakness, teach you how to practice them and maximize your results. Click here to schedule your complimentary golf game analysis.
7 Secrets to Consistent Golf
1. Take Professional Lessons
PGA professionals know the game better than an other group of golfers in the industry, hands down. If you truly want to get better:
2. Practice with a Purpose
The only thing worse than not practicing is practicing all the wrong things without knowing it (and you probably practice this way!). Please, please, please read this post if you haven't already.
3. Develop a Routine
Your routine is what gives comfort mentally when put under pressure. Watch the men and women on tour - they just do the same thing over and over again before every shot.
Should you be lucky enough to be able to attend a tour event, follow around a slightly less popular professional for 9 holes. Take note on how they physically move through their routine from shot to shot. (It will be the exact same every time)
4. Work on your Short Game
Simply put the fastest way to lower and more consistent scores is a better short game. Practice short chips, long chips, short pitches and long pitches. Practice bunker shots, flop shots, uneven lies and 50 yard wedges.
If you only have 10 minutes a week to practice, putt for five minutes (more on this in a minute) and pitch for five minutes.
5. Work on your Putting
Did you know that amateurs shooting between 85-95 use 40% of the total strokes per round on the putting green?
If you shot between 85-95 and want to shoot between 75-85 work on your 2-5 foot putts, and putts from 30-50 feet. This combination makes up 80% of putts taken.
6. Play a lot of Golf
A round a week at a minimum if you want to play your best is the requirement I place on my full time students. You should do the same.
7. Become Unconsciously Competent
Avoid thinking about your golf swing on the course, and instead play golf (not golf swing!). If you arrive on the first tee thinking about hinging your wrists, turning your shoulders and lagging the club into impact, you are in for a long round of golf.
Bonus point - have fun! If it isn't fun, why are you doing it?!
PGA professionals know the game better than an other group of golfers in the industry, hands down. If you truly want to get better:
- Stop listening to your amateur buddies that can't break 90 or 100
2. Practice with a Purpose
The only thing worse than not practicing is practicing all the wrong things without knowing it (and you probably practice this way!). Please, please, please read this post if you haven't already.
3. Develop a Routine
Your routine is what gives comfort mentally when put under pressure. Watch the men and women on tour - they just do the same thing over and over again before every shot.
Should you be lucky enough to be able to attend a tour event, follow around a slightly less popular professional for 9 holes. Take note on how they physically move through their routine from shot to shot. (It will be the exact same every time)
4. Work on your Short Game
Simply put the fastest way to lower and more consistent scores is a better short game. Practice short chips, long chips, short pitches and long pitches. Practice bunker shots, flop shots, uneven lies and 50 yard wedges.
If you only have 10 minutes a week to practice, putt for five minutes (more on this in a minute) and pitch for five minutes.
5. Work on your Putting
Did you know that amateurs shooting between 85-95 use 40% of the total strokes per round on the putting green?
If you shot between 85-95 and want to shoot between 75-85 work on your 2-5 foot putts, and putts from 30-50 feet. This combination makes up 80% of putts taken.
6. Play a lot of Golf
A round a week at a minimum if you want to play your best is the requirement I place on my full time students. You should do the same.
7. Become Unconsciously Competent
Avoid thinking about your golf swing on the course, and instead play golf (not golf swing!). If you arrive on the first tee thinking about hinging your wrists, turning your shoulders and lagging the club into impact, you are in for a long round of golf.
Bonus point - have fun! If it isn't fun, why are you doing it?!
How to Hit Hybrid Golf Clubs
In this post, we will discuss the hybrid itself, the set up with a hybrid, and ideal contact with the ball.
The hybrid golf club itself is one of the newest clubs to come about in the golf industry. Hybrids by nature are designed to replace long irons (2, 3, 4, & 5 irons; although now there are entire iron sets that are hybrids - those are great for low club head speed players or beginners). Here are a few images of a hybrid and how it sets up to the ball.
In general, the ball is played in your stance similar to that of a long iron (not centered, but also not off of your left heel like driver would be - it is played under your left ear or under the logo on your shirt).
One of the biggest keys you want to see with the hybrid is that there is some degree of forward press with the handle. Forward press is the angle of the shaft at set up. If the shaft with the hybrid points to your belt buckle, you have negative forward press and if it points outside of your left hip, you have too much forward press. Ideally, the handle points at your left belt loop.
Ideal contact comes ball first, and a small divot second in most golf shots. The hybrid is no exception.
To start to gain a feel for this, set up a tee just after the ball low in the ground.
Make the ball and the tee fly with your club in a golf swing. This will give you more solid contact. If the tee stays in the ground, you either hit behind the ball and the club skipped up into the ball, or you never got enough ground.
Focus UNTIL you get to the point of clipping the tee and compressing the ball off of the face solidly.
If you cannot get the good contact we are looking for with this drill, watch this video clip. For more on Gibbs Golf visit our website.
The hybrid golf club itself is one of the newest clubs to come about in the golf industry. Hybrids by nature are designed to replace long irons (2, 3, 4, & 5 irons; although now there are entire iron sets that are hybrids - those are great for low club head speed players or beginners). Here are a few images of a hybrid and how it sets up to the ball.
In general, the ball is played in your stance similar to that of a long iron (not centered, but also not off of your left heel like driver would be - it is played under your left ear or under the logo on your shirt).
One of the biggest keys you want to see with the hybrid is that there is some degree of forward press with the handle. Forward press is the angle of the shaft at set up. If the shaft with the hybrid points to your belt buckle, you have negative forward press and if it points outside of your left hip, you have too much forward press. Ideally, the handle points at your left belt loop.
Ideal contact comes ball first, and a small divot second in most golf shots. The hybrid is no exception.
To start to gain a feel for this, set up a tee just after the ball low in the ground.
Make the ball and the tee fly with your club in a golf swing. This will give you more solid contact. If the tee stays in the ground, you either hit behind the ball and the club skipped up into the ball, or you never got enough ground.
Focus UNTIL you get to the point of clipping the tee and compressing the ball off of the face solidly.
If you cannot get the good contact we are looking for with this drill, watch this video clip. For more on Gibbs Golf visit our website.
The Golf Course
Let's start with the whole property and then work down to the individual areas.
First, there is the course itself, the practice facility and the club house. All courses will have some form of all three major areas. However, some clubs have very limited practice areas and club houses while others put literally tens of millions of dollars into the club house or practice areas.
Let's start with the golf course.
The golf course itself is made up of holes. Each hole contains a tee box and a green, at a minimum. Most courses have a series of 9, 18, 27 or 36 holes.
Each hole has a general rating for what a professional should score on it. That general rating is called, "Par." Par is 3, 4 or 5 (there are a few, very few courses that have a Par 2 or 6, but that is very rare). As a beginner, a good goal to start for is 3 strokes over Par on every hole (once you can hit the ball 100 yards)
Every hole has at least a tee box, a green and a hole.
The tee box is where the hole begins. All players start the hole by placing a tee in the ground (optional, but highly advised!) and placing the ball on it. The ball is struck successively until it comes to rest on the green. Once the green is reached, the ball is then putt into the hole. Once the ball has be holed, the player takes the ball onto the next tee box and the process is repeated.
Other areas on any given hole may include -
The Fairway - this is the short grass between the tee box and the green.
A Bunker/Sand Trap - imagine a small pit filled with sand that ranges in size from a refrigerator to football field (don't put your ball in that one! :) )
Out of Bounds - this is area is marked by white posts. Balls that enter this area are deemed to be out of play and the player must replay the shot from the original position where the ball last came to rest (don't do this either!)
Hazards - an area in which red or yellow posts signify that the ball can be played from (most of the time, some local rules do not permit it) but the club cannot touch the ground before executing the stroke. It is possible that the hazard could be a cliff edge, a lake, largely overgrown grass areas or river/ditch.
Rough - this traditionally surrounds the fairway. It varies in length (grass length that is) from one half inch to 5 inches.
And, while there are many other areas that exist, this is a basic introductory list and let's move onto the practice facility.
At the practice facility of the golf course, most will have the following:
Putting green - the area in which practicing putting is permitted
Chipping/Pitching area - the area in which practicing chipping/pitching is permitted
Driving range - the area in which practicing long shots is permitted
The general idea in these areas is to be curious to other golfers and practice your game. Click here to learn about practice.
The Clubhouse is where most of the action exists for purchases, dinning, locker-rooms, events and other activities the golf course holds. It is typically very easy to find because it tends to be the only major structure on the golf course. Some clubhouses are a half of a trailer. Some clubhouses are more than double that in square footage of the white house! (Congressional Country Club has a Clubhouse that is 140,000 SQ FT! Posted below)
This is the area in which you would be likely to find a food and beverage service operation, the golf shop, a club repair area, staff offices, bathrooms and other departments the club deems necessary.
Test your knowledge!
First, there is the course itself, the practice facility and the club house. All courses will have some form of all three major areas. However, some clubs have very limited practice areas and club houses while others put literally tens of millions of dollars into the club house or practice areas.
Let's start with the golf course.
The golf course itself is made up of holes. Each hole contains a tee box and a green, at a minimum. Most courses have a series of 9, 18, 27 or 36 holes.
Each hole has a general rating for what a professional should score on it. That general rating is called, "Par." Par is 3, 4 or 5 (there are a few, very few courses that have a Par 2 or 6, but that is very rare). As a beginner, a good goal to start for is 3 strokes over Par on every hole (once you can hit the ball 100 yards)
Every hole has at least a tee box, a green and a hole.
The tee box is where the hole begins. All players start the hole by placing a tee in the ground (optional, but highly advised!) and placing the ball on it. The ball is struck successively until it comes to rest on the green. Once the green is reached, the ball is then putt into the hole. Once the ball has be holed, the player takes the ball onto the next tee box and the process is repeated.
Other areas on any given hole may include -
The Fairway - this is the short grass between the tee box and the green.
A Bunker/Sand Trap - imagine a small pit filled with sand that ranges in size from a refrigerator to football field (don't put your ball in that one! :) )
Out of Bounds - this is area is marked by white posts. Balls that enter this area are deemed to be out of play and the player must replay the shot from the original position where the ball last came to rest (don't do this either!)
Hazards - an area in which red or yellow posts signify that the ball can be played from (most of the time, some local rules do not permit it) but the club cannot touch the ground before executing the stroke. It is possible that the hazard could be a cliff edge, a lake, largely overgrown grass areas or river/ditch.
Rough - this traditionally surrounds the fairway. It varies in length (grass length that is) from one half inch to 5 inches.
And, while there are many other areas that exist, this is a basic introductory list and let's move onto the practice facility.
At the practice facility of the golf course, most will have the following:
Putting green - the area in which practicing putting is permitted
Chipping/Pitching area - the area in which practicing chipping/pitching is permitted
Driving range - the area in which practicing long shots is permitted
The general idea in these areas is to be curious to other golfers and practice your game. Click here to learn about practice.
The Clubhouse is where most of the action exists for purchases, dinning, locker-rooms, events and other activities the golf course holds. It is typically very easy to find because it tends to be the only major structure on the golf course. Some clubhouses are a half of a trailer. Some clubhouses are more than double that in square footage of the white house! (Congressional Country Club has a Clubhouse that is 140,000 SQ FT! Posted below)
This is the area in which you would be likely to find a food and beverage service operation, the golf shop, a club repair area, staff offices, bathrooms and other departments the club deems necessary.
Test your knowledge!
The Golf Club
This is one post in a series of posts on golf basics.
For more golf basics, click here.
The golf club itself is composed of three basic parts.
Head - this is the part of the club that will actually strike the golf ball
Shaft - this connects the grip and the head together and helps to create club head speed
Grip - this is the only spot on the club that the hands will remain during the golf swing
Basics of the head of the club - let's start with the overall appearance and uses
Heads come in two basic forms, irons and woods.
Irons are the club heads that generally hit the ball onto the the green. Irons will appear smaller in size in comparison with woods.
This is an image of an iron
Woods hit the ball longer that irons and are larger than irons.
This is an image of a wood
Use irons when you are closer to the green, and use woods when starting the hole (assuming you cannot reach the hole in one shot - read the post on "The Golf Course" if you haven't already).
Let's discuss the shaft. Shaft come in two basic forms - graphite and steel.
Graphite shafts are always found in woods (at least the woods that are new within 10 years) and steel shafts are found in irons; irons can also have graphite shafts.
Graphite shafts are traditionally slightly longer (one half inch) than a normal steel shaft. Graphite shafts are designed for irons to hit the ball higher, slightly longer because of the extra shaft length, and to feel better when the club head hits the ball off center.
Graphite shafts in irons are traditionally recommended for players just starting out, players with lower club head speed or for someone that prefers the feeling of a lighter shaft (graphite shafts in irons are typically 50-80 grams in total weight, while steel shafts are 80-140 grams).
Steel shafts in irons are good for someone with average or higher club head speed (average club head speed for a man would produce 135 yards of carry with a 7 iron and a lady would produce 90 yards of carry with a 7 iron), or for someone that is looking for more control.
The two biggest fitting variables in shafts are length and flex. A standard steel 6 iron (depending on the manufacturer) is about 37 inches in length. Standard flex is called "regular" and fits most male golfers well. Ladies use a "A-flex" or a "Ladies-flex." Both the "A" and "Ladies" flex are typical flex fits for women.
Grip Basics
The only key to know with grips for, "Golf 101" is to understand sizing.
Grips come in three basic sizes -
Standard
Midsize
Oversize
Without getting into exact measurements, standard sized grips will fit about 75% of the golf population.
Midsized grips are normally used for players with larger hands or longer fingers.
Oversized grips are used for players with very large hands or fingers.
A BONUS POINT ON GRIPS - Golfers with arthritis of the hands, fingers or wrists tend to find that oversized grips are much more comfortable and allow greater enjoyment physically when gripping and swinging the golf club - however - larger than standard grips will tend to produce a ball flight for a right handed golfer that flies to the right. Therefore, before switching to a non-standard grip, consult your PGA Professional and have them fit you for grip size.
This is one post in a series of posts on, "Golf 101." Please click here for the entire thread of posts.
For more golf basics, click here.
The golf club itself is composed of three basic parts.
Head - this is the part of the club that will actually strike the golf ball
Shaft - this connects the grip and the head together and helps to create club head speed
Grip - this is the only spot on the club that the hands will remain during the golf swing
Basics of the head of the club - let's start with the overall appearance and uses
Heads come in two basic forms, irons and woods.
Irons are the club heads that generally hit the ball onto the the green. Irons will appear smaller in size in comparison with woods.
This is an image of an iron
Woods hit the ball longer that irons and are larger than irons.
This is an image of a wood
Use irons when you are closer to the green, and use woods when starting the hole (assuming you cannot reach the hole in one shot - read the post on "The Golf Course" if you haven't already).
Let's discuss the shaft. Shaft come in two basic forms - graphite and steel.
Graphite shafts are always found in woods (at least the woods that are new within 10 years) and steel shafts are found in irons; irons can also have graphite shafts.
Graphite shafts are traditionally slightly longer (one half inch) than a normal steel shaft. Graphite shafts are designed for irons to hit the ball higher, slightly longer because of the extra shaft length, and to feel better when the club head hits the ball off center.
Graphite shafts in irons are traditionally recommended for players just starting out, players with lower club head speed or for someone that prefers the feeling of a lighter shaft (graphite shafts in irons are typically 50-80 grams in total weight, while steel shafts are 80-140 grams).
Steel shafts in irons are good for someone with average or higher club head speed (average club head speed for a man would produce 135 yards of carry with a 7 iron and a lady would produce 90 yards of carry with a 7 iron), or for someone that is looking for more control.
The two biggest fitting variables in shafts are length and flex. A standard steel 6 iron (depending on the manufacturer) is about 37 inches in length. Standard flex is called "regular" and fits most male golfers well. Ladies use a "A-flex" or a "Ladies-flex." Both the "A" and "Ladies" flex are typical flex fits for women.
Grip Basics
The only key to know with grips for, "Golf 101" is to understand sizing.
Grips come in three basic sizes -
Standard
Midsize
Oversize
Without getting into exact measurements, standard sized grips will fit about 75% of the golf population.
Midsized grips are normally used for players with larger hands or longer fingers.
Oversized grips are used for players with very large hands or fingers.
A BONUS POINT ON GRIPS - Golfers with arthritis of the hands, fingers or wrists tend to find that oversized grips are much more comfortable and allow greater enjoyment physically when gripping and swinging the golf club - however - larger than standard grips will tend to produce a ball flight for a right handed golfer that flies to the right. Therefore, before switching to a non-standard grip, consult your PGA Professional and have them fit you for grip size.
This is one post in a series of posts on, "Golf 101." Please click here for the entire thread of posts.
How to Use Bounce Correctly in the Bunker
When hitting a sand shot, one major key needs to be determined (there is a quiz, take notes! http://gibbsgolf.com/?page_id=8)
The lie of the ball in the sand.
Therefore, assess whether or not there is no sand, little sand or a lot of sand under the ball.
To determine how much sand is around the ball, use the feel that you have in your feet.
If your feet sink into the sand deeply (Florida courses typically have lots of soft sand or high end private clubs), odds are there is a lot of sand under the ball.
If your feet only sink a little bit into the sand (this is the most common condition you will find), there probably is only a small amount of sand.
If your feet make "crunching" sounds or don't sink at all into the sand (common in Arizona, New Mexico and desert types of courses) you are hitting off of fill dirt, good luck, there is basically no sand at all in that bunker!
Now that you know how to identify how much sand is under the ball, learning about bounce will make more sense.
Bounce is the angle of depth the sole of the club contains. The angle of depth is measured by manufacturers. Each company produces wedges that have different amounts of bounce classified by a number. This number ranges anywhere from 4-14, traditionally.
Wedges with 4-6 degrees of bounce would be considered to have low/little bounce, wedges from 6-10 degrees have mid/average bounce, and wedges with more than 10 degrees have high/large bounce.
The wedges in your bag should reflect the courses that you play the most. If you carry three wedges and live in Florida, TWO of the three should be high bounce. If you carry three wedges and live in Arizona, TWO of those three wedges should be low bounce.
Use bounce correctly in the bunker by the way that the club addresses the ball at the set up.
EXAMPLE 1 - If the lie is tight (little/no sand) the face of the club should be square to slightly closed.
EXAMPLE 2 - If the lie is average (some sand) the face of the club should be square to slightly open.
EXAMPLE 3 - If the lie is fluffy (lots of sand) the face of the club should be open to very open.
When the face of the club is square to slightly closed like in example one, this makes the trailing edge of the sole of the club negative to standard (negative in this situation means that some of the bounce of the club is being taken away). This will help the club dig into the ground making the shot easier.
When the face of the club is very open like in example three, the trailing edge of the sole of the club is positive to standard (positive in this situation means that the effective bounce is larger). This will help the club slide across the ground instead of dig into the ground, making the shot easier.
Test your Knowledge! Click the link below - then click Start Quiz
http://gibbsgolf.com/?page_id=8
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
The lie of the ball in the sand.
Therefore, assess whether or not there is no sand, little sand or a lot of sand under the ball.
To determine how much sand is around the ball, use the feel that you have in your feet.
If your feet sink into the sand deeply (Florida courses typically have lots of soft sand or high end private clubs), odds are there is a lot of sand under the ball.
If your feet only sink a little bit into the sand (this is the most common condition you will find), there probably is only a small amount of sand.
If your feet make "crunching" sounds or don't sink at all into the sand (common in Arizona, New Mexico and desert types of courses) you are hitting off of fill dirt, good luck, there is basically no sand at all in that bunker!
Now that you know how to identify how much sand is under the ball, learning about bounce will make more sense.
Bounce is the angle of depth the sole of the club contains. The angle of depth is measured by manufacturers. Each company produces wedges that have different amounts of bounce classified by a number. This number ranges anywhere from 4-14, traditionally.
Wedges with 4-6 degrees of bounce would be considered to have low/little bounce, wedges from 6-10 degrees have mid/average bounce, and wedges with more than 10 degrees have high/large bounce.
The wedges in your bag should reflect the courses that you play the most. If you carry three wedges and live in Florida, TWO of the three should be high bounce. If you carry three wedges and live in Arizona, TWO of those three wedges should be low bounce.
Use bounce correctly in the bunker by the way that the club addresses the ball at the set up.
EXAMPLE 1 - If the lie is tight (little/no sand) the face of the club should be square to slightly closed.
EXAMPLE 2 - If the lie is average (some sand) the face of the club should be square to slightly open.
EXAMPLE 3 - If the lie is fluffy (lots of sand) the face of the club should be open to very open.
When the face of the club is square to slightly closed like in example one, this makes the trailing edge of the sole of the club negative to standard (negative in this situation means that some of the bounce of the club is being taken away). This will help the club dig into the ground making the shot easier.
When the face of the club is very open like in example three, the trailing edge of the sole of the club is positive to standard (positive in this situation means that the effective bounce is larger). This will help the club slide across the ground instead of dig into the ground, making the shot easier.
Test your Knowledge! Click the link below - then click Start Quiz
http://gibbsgolf.com/?page_id=8
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
Variations of the L to L Drill - Challenge Yourself!
These variations are great to make the basic L to L drill more challenging.
As you master the basic L to L, work on the feet together variation.
Once the feet together L to L is working well, move onto the staggered stance L to L.
Keep your form, tempo and balance at all times in the variations. The goal is to gain high quality repetitions of good swing mechanics and solid contact.
Watch the video drill and then go practice the variations. Post your comments and feedback below.
www.gibbsgolf.com
gibbsgolf.blogspot.com
2013 US Open Winner
Let's find the winner of the 2013 U.S. Open. The magic ball says...
Enough said.
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
- He will be left handed
- ASU Almuni - GO SUNDEVILS!
- Over 40 years old and a father
- Under Par through 3 rounds
- Only player to a 4 wood off the tee on 18
Enough said.
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How to Hit Consistent Straight Shots - the L to L Drill
Learn how to have great basic form for your golf swing with the L to L drill. This is a great way to warm up and work on your tempo.
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How Many Wedges should you have in your Bag and what about Bounce?
Your golfing buddy has 6 wedges, and another has 2. They
both make good cases for carrying what they do. Which golfer should you listen to?
Neither – consult a PGA Professional here at GibbsGolf! Add
a comment below on your specific set if you need some help.
As a general overview of wedges, let’s start with the number of wedges and lofts.
Ideally keep the gap in loft from your two shortest clubs in
your iron set even through out your wedge set.
For example, most commonly it's 42 degrees for nine irons
today, and pitching wedges are roughly 46 degrees. Therefore, carry a 50 degree
gap wedge, a 54 degree sand wedge and a 58 degree lob wedge (With a 4 degree
gap from the nine to pitching wedge have a 4 degree gap between each wedge. If
your gap is 5 degrees from the two shortest clubs in the iron set, have 5 degree
gaps in your wedge set). The goal is to have your highest lofted wedge be at or below 60 degrees. You may need only one extra wedge, you may need 4.
Let’s also talk about
bounce.
Bounce is the second number on the club. Traditionally it
will be between 4-14. Depending on course conditions, one bounce will be more
favorable over another. GibbsGolf recommends having one low to mid bounce club
(4-10 degrees) and one mid to high bounce club (8-14 degrees) no matter what your
conditions. On every course you will encounter fluffy lies and tight lies. Your
clubs need to be able to hit any type of shot at any time.
An example of a good wedge set could be...
46 degree PW
50 degree GW
54 degree SW with 12 degrees of bounce
58 degree LW with 6 degrees of bounce
Check your set specifically with either a golf shop or
store, or just check online by Googling your clubs.
As a summary…
You are looking to find the loft of the two shortest clubs
in your set. What ever the difference is between your two shortest clubs, keep
that gap the same for your gap wedge, sand wedge and lob wedge (if you carry
one).
Any comments, questions or suggestions for
topics are welcome; enter them in the comment box below. Your topic
might be the next post!
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How to Pick a Qualified Instructor
Six general topics that when looking for a new coach are;
credentials, experience, reputation, willingness, general ideas or concepts of
teaching and video technology.
Within the topic of credentials, seek out a PGA professional or at a minimum someone that has worked under multiple other PGA professionals.
Within the topic of credentials, seek out a PGA professional or at a minimum someone that has worked under multiple other PGA professionals.
PGA professionals undergo the most extensive training and education
in the field of golf instruction. They are also required to play to a certain
level and pass multiple levels of tests.
Look for someone that's certified in club fitting; any major
brand would do fine.
Look for someone that's certified with the Titleist Performance
Institute (or at least ask them about there general corporal background) as
they will understand body and swing relationships best.
Within the topic of experience, find a coach that is given at least 1,000 lessons.
Within the topic of experience, find a coach that is given at least 1,000 lessons.
Be aware that the average professional teaches roughly 100-300
lessons a year, according to PGA Magazine.
Numerous coaches have taught for years and years but only
given a few hundred lessons a year at best. Also, find a coach that has
experience teaching your level of golfer. Do they specialize in what you're
looking for in the game or do they teach other groups of golfers as there
specialty? Just ask them what there specialty is in.
Reputation trumps all.
Reputation trumps all.
A referral from a friend for a good coach is highly
recommended. Additionally, ask the other employees in the golf shop or other
coaches that teach with the coach you are considering if they've taken a lesson
from him or her. They should say yes and that they highly recommend him or her.
Willingness revolves around two key concepts; time and attitude.
Willingness revolves around two key concepts; time and attitude.
Seek someone out that has the passion and energy. It will
make every lesson that much better. They should additionally be willing to give you 10-15 minutes of their time to discuss and answer questions that you have.
Ask about their general ideas of the golf swing and teaching approach. Ask what methods they teach and look to see that they have some answers along the lines that are based on the student and not their own personal opinions.
Ask about their general ideas of the golf swing and teaching approach. Ask what methods they teach and look to see that they have some answers along the lines that are based on the student and not their own personal opinions.
Look for fact-based answers. Examples would be ball flight
laws, video reinforcement or that they use launch monitors (ideal if you are looking to get fit for clubs). Again, you're looking for
facts not opinions.
And finally…
And finally…
Work with an
instructor that uses video.
100% of people find that this visual reference will help
them learn faster. The National Golf Foundation did a study finding that
golfers that used video for lessons learned teaching concepts and were able to
apply them 3-4 times faster than without video.
By seeing your own swing on video and gaining feedback from
the coach's expertise in analysis, video-based golf instruction is a mandatory
if you want to learn as fast and as competently as possible.
Here is a summary…
Ask for 10-15 minutes of his or her time.
Score him/her on a scale of 1-10 for each area AFTER the
interview is over.
60 would be a perfect score, 0 is obviously someone you
should erase from your memory because they probably just made you worse :)
Passing is 45 and above. Interview at least three coaches.
Have fun, learn and enjoy the process of improvement.
Any comments, questions or suggestions for
topics are welcome; enter them in the comment box below. Your topic
might be the next post! New posts everyday so come back tomorrow and get some
help from a PGA Professional for free!
Learn When to Go for the Pin and When the Pen is for Decoration
Are you a flag hunter? Do you find yourself with difficult up and down opportunities
around the green often? Do you hit less than 9 greens in regulation per round?
If you answered yes to two or more of these questions, this
post is for you.
Here are some keys to let you know that you have the
opportunity to go for the flag…
- Less than 100 yards to go to the flag
- The flag is in the back of the green with no trouble behind or long of the green.
- The lie of the ball is good or at least average
Here are some keys to let you know when NOT to go for the
flag…
- When the flag it is tucked left, right, or short on the surface of the green
- If you are more than 100 yards away from the center of the green
- If in general you are lacking confidence
- When the lie of the ball is worse than average
A great drill to help you with this is called On or Off.
First, laser the flag at the range next time you practice
that is near your 7 iron distance.
Sort out 10 balls.
Stroke each ball, aim for the center of the green and track
where each ball ends up (It will either be on or off the green).
The best players in the world achieve about 65-70% on the
green in this situation on the course.
If you are a 10 handicap, aim to accomplish 50% on the
green.
If you are a 20 handicap, aim to accomplish 30% on the
green.
If you are a 30 handicap, aim to accomplish getting 30% on
the green with your wedge instead of your 7 iron (change the green to reflect
your wedge distance instead of the 7 iron).
Here is the summary -
Let’s play aggressive shots at
conservative spots.
Any comments, questions or suggestions for
topics are welcome; enter them in the comment box below. Your topic
might be the next post!
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How to Putt Out of Your Dreams from Long Range
The approach shot you just hit lands softly on the green
just like you planned. You walk up to the green to find your ball just 25 feet
from the cup.
With the putter in hand, you roll the ball 10 feet past the
cup. Ah, @#$%^!
Bad putting comes from a lack of proper routine and
prioritizing your practice correctly.
Maybe you don't know you should have a routine or you've
heard you should but don't know what to do.
Let’s go over developing a routine and how to execute it.
The general approach for developing a routine is only six words.
The general approach for developing a routine is only six words.
See it. Feel it. Trust it.
This routine is from the book, 7 days in Utopia. This is
a very meaningful and powerful book and its overall approach to the mental
game within the pre-shot routine works.
See the shot happen. Feel the swing and the club in your
hands. Trust that you can execute the shot (That is a 30,000 foot view of the
book).
If you haven't read the book 7 days and Utopia, you need to. It is a must read for every golfer. Put it on your list, go buy it, read it and reread it. It will change the way you look at the game and it's a very fast, entertaining, fun, read.
Here are some more specifics on developing your routine…
If you haven't read the book 7 days and Utopia, you need to. It is a must read for every golfer. Put it on your list, go buy it, read it and reread it. It will change the way you look at the game and it's a very fast, entertaining, fun, read.
Here are some more specifics on developing your routine…
On the green, consist of starting out by marking your ball.
Place a coin or similar object behind the ball and pick the ball up. Make sure
the ball is clean. From there, read the green and see the ball go in.
Walk halfway to the hole between your ball and the hole. Make
some practice strokes while you look at your target. Feel the stroke a few
times from halfway and then walk back to your ball and make some more practice
strokes while looking at your target.
Then, step up to the ball, set up, and stroke it in.
Here is a specific drill to help with your lag putting…
Here is a specific drill to help with your lag putting…
Practice the ladder drill. The ladder drill consists of
three balls.
Place one ball each at 20, 30 and 40 feet. Find putts that are
uphill, downhill, breaking to the left and breaking to the right.
Be sure to go through your full routine on each putt. To
complete one cycle of the ladder drill, be sure to have 10 minutes (3 putts
from 20, 30 and 40 feet each respectively on putts that are uphill, downhill,
breaking left and breaking right - that is 12 total putts).
Happy putting :)
Any comments,
questions or suggestions
for topics are welcome; enter them in the comment box below. Your topic
might be the next post!
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How to Stick Your Half Wedge
You find your ball in the center of the fairway with just 50
yards to go. You take your sand wedge only to have to hit it two (or three!)
times before finding the green. It is a common error that tends to make many
golfers leave the game.
Before you throw in the towel, let’s discuss some great ways
to overcome this shot.
First, find your yardages for each wedge.
Do this by practicing at a par three course in your local area. Buy a laser range finder and have a yardage card to write down your shots as you hit them.
Do this by practicing at a par three course in your local area. Buy a laser range finder and have a yardage card to write down your shots as you hit them.
Hit five or six shots from a specific yardage to a specific
flag that is level.
Write down the results that you get on each shot and take
the average of the shots as your distance.
So let’s say you hit your pitching wedge to the center of
the green on a 100 yard par three. Now you established one yardage.
If we imagine that the left shoulder unit is the center of a clock and that your left arm is the hour hand, you should never swing past 10 o'clock. Now swing only to 9 o'clock with your left arm and you will produce a different amount of distance. Since in our example the pitching wedge at 10 o'clock produces 100 yards, odds are the pitching wedge at 9 o'clock will produce about 80. Now you have established two yardages.
If we imagine that the left shoulder unit is the center of a clock and that your left arm is the hour hand, you should never swing past 10 o'clock. Now swing only to 9 o'clock with your left arm and you will produce a different amount of distance. Since in our example the pitching wedge at 10 o'clock produces 100 yards, odds are the pitching wedge at 9 o'clock will produce about 80. Now you have established two yardages.
Do this with each wedge in your bag and own 100 yards and
in.
The final key is to practice these yardages. On the par three courses or on the driving range, always check the distance to the flag with a laser range finder (if you don’t have one, get one!). This way you will know what distance you are hitting.
The final key is to practice these yardages. On the par three courses or on the driving range, always check the distance to the flag with a laser range finder (if you don’t have one, get one!). This way you will know what distance you are hitting.
Remember, wedges are weapons for precision, not distance. Therefore, swing controlled and smooth.
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How to Hit the Driver Straighter
Your driver is constantly finding the rough. Second tee
shots are a common hood in your game. Frustration with the driver makes the
game irritating.
Maybe you have even taken a lessons on the driver yet still
struggle with it. Perhaps you hit it well on the range, but can’t produce it on
the course. There are a few keys that you are most likely missing to finding
the fairway more often.
Tempo is the most common major issue amateurs face to hit
the driver straight.
Imagine Niagara
Falls for a moment. (Go on, close your eyes, imagine
it…)
See the water flowing over the top of the edge of the cliff.
This is the point in time that the water is at the slowest speed in comparison
with when the water is in free-fall. The water is moving the fastest by the time
it hits the rocks down below. The same is true for a golf swing with good tempo.
The driver should move the fastest at impact and the slowest
from the top of the swing down into impact.
Commonly though, the driver head moves the fastest from the
top, not at impact. (Oops!)
Work on improving your driver tempo by feeling a slight pause at the
top of your swing.
Additionally, set up keys for the driver are critical. Focus on ball position, weight distribution, and spine tilt.
The ball position should be in line with your left heel (for
a right handed golfer).
Your weight should be approximately 60% on your right foot
(for a right handed golfer).
Your spine tilt should not be perfectly vertical but
actually leaning slightly to the right (for a right handed golfer). Perhaps the
thought of the Leaning Tower of Pisa rings a bell. From your hips up you should
be leaning to your right with your spine for the driver (look at any tour pro’s
set up with the driver).
Finally, have a solid consistent, repeatable, pre-shot routine. Make sure you get behind the ball in line with your target to see the shot you want to have happen. Then, execute a few practice swings for tempo.
Finally, have a solid consistent, repeatable, pre-shot routine. Make sure you get behind the ball in line with your target to see the shot you want to have happen. Then, execute a few practice swings for tempo.
Once fundamentally set up, look at your target one more time
and swing. Don’t delay.
Any comments, questions or suggestions for topics are
welcome; enter them in the comment box below.
Your topic might be the next post!
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How to Become a Mentally Tough Golfer
There are two general mindsets throughout the game of golf.
1. Practicing/training
2. Playing/trusting
Practicing or training mode is set on the intention of improving mechanics. Drills and exercises are good examples of practicing or training mode (video drills coming soon!).
Playing or trusting mode is the focus upon target and tempo. This is ideally how you play golf mentally. Target and tempo are truly your conscious thoughts as you play. You've made enough repetitions consciously beforehand practicing your golf swing so that your subconscious remembers how to move and how to swing the golf club. (You shouldn’t be thinking about your swing mechanically on the course)
Here's an exercise to do the next time you're at the range
1. Stroke a dozen or two dozen balls to just warm up your muscles.
Practicing or training mode is set on the intention of improving mechanics. Drills and exercises are good examples of practicing or training mode (video drills coming soon!).
Playing or trusting mode is the focus upon target and tempo. This is ideally how you play golf mentally. Target and tempo are truly your conscious thoughts as you play. You've made enough repetitions consciously beforehand practicing your golf swing so that your subconscious remembers how to move and how to swing the golf club. (You shouldn’t be thinking about your swing mechanically on the course)
Here's an exercise to do the next time you're at the range
1. Stroke a dozen or two dozen balls to just warm up your muscles.
2. Dump out the rest of your bucket and split the balls in
half.
3. Make the first half of the bucket practicing mode; improve
your golf swing (work on drills your coach has given you, or drills that are
soon to be posted).
4. Make the second half of the bucket playing mode; only
think about your target and your tempo (this is definitely what amateurs find
to be the hardest half because the vast majority of them never do this!)
Go complete that drill, and then come back and read the rest
of this post.
………
Go on, go to the range. Stop reading. GO TO THE RANGE AND GO HIT A
BUCKET, HALF IN PLAYING MODE AND HALF IN PRACTICE MODE AND COME BACK.
So you just finished your bucket. Any epiphanies?
Here's the whole thing with golf and why it is so mentally
challenging – We are told that the range is the way that you get better.
So, you practice, practice, and practice. Practice makes
perfect right? No! Practice makes permanent.
And, if you practice incorrectly, now you're really just making
yourself worse.
The range will only make you better if you implement drills 50% of the time (practice or training mental mindset) and 50% of the time working on target and tempo (playing or trusting mindset).
The range will only make you better if you implement drills 50% of the time (practice or training mental mindset) and 50% of the time working on target and tempo (playing or trusting mindset).
You must practice
playing golf on the range.
Any comments, questions or suggestions for topics are
welcome; enter them in the comment box below.
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Learn How to Practice with a Purpose
There are three major forms of practice
In addition to the forms of practice…
2. Consider how much time there is to practice. Will it be five minutes, five hours, or one hour? Whatever that amount of time is, break down the time that you have to practice and make mini goals within each time “chunk.” For example, the first 10 minutes you will work on putting and executing your full green reading routine and mental routine, followed by making twenty three foot putts in a row in the next 30 minutes.
3. Always ask yourself before the practice session what mental state will you be in and for how long will you be in the trusting or training state (for more on trusting or training, reference the post entitled “How to Take Your Range Game to the Course”). Will you be training for 10 minutes or 30 minutes? Will you be trusting for half of the amount of time or the whole time?
1. Random –
hitting a difference shot every time
2. Blocked –
hitting the same shot over and over again
3. Competitive
– practicing against someone else
Random practice is best used for gaining skills like touch,
tempo or balance. An example of random practice would be to take one ball and
drop it anywhere around the green and to then proceed to chip the ball onto the
green and then putt the ball into the hole.
Blocked practice is best used when needing to gain skills
like mechanical improvement or to ingrain any habit on a subconscious level. An
example of blocked practice would be working on keeping your left wrist flat at
impact when hitting a chip shot.
Competitive practice is best used when the new skill that
has been worked on in random and blocked practice seems to be easier to apply
than it was when it was first being learned. An example of competitive practice
would be challenging someone else to a game of HORSE on the putting green.
In addition to the forms of practice…
1. Always
have a goal for the practice session. Have at least one goal if not three or four specific goals that you are working
toward. Some general goal examples might
be to have a mechanical goal, a results goal, a ball flight goal, a tempo goal, or a confidence goal. Any goal
that you have, make sure it is the right one – work with a coach that knows. (soon to come in another post – picking
a qualified instructor) Only a live
coach can really tell you what your goal should be.
2. Consider how much time there is to practice. Will it be five minutes, five hours, or one hour? Whatever that amount of time is, break down the time that you have to practice and make mini goals within each time “chunk.” For example, the first 10 minutes you will work on putting and executing your full green reading routine and mental routine, followed by making twenty three foot putts in a row in the next 30 minutes.
3. Always ask yourself before the practice session what mental state will you be in and for how long will you be in the trusting or training state (for more on trusting or training, reference the post entitled “How to Take Your Range Game to the Course”). Will you be training for 10 minutes or 30 minutes? Will you be trusting for half of the amount of time or the whole time?
Have a plan. Ask yourself these major questions and write it
down if you have to so you can have a reference to come back to and keep your
focus on Practicing with a Purpose.
Any comments, questions or suggestions for topics are
welcome; enter them in the comment box below.
Your topic might be the next post! New posts everyday, so get some help
from a PGA Professional for free! Scroll
down below and enter your email under the heading “Follow by email” so
you don't miss a single new golf skill! (You will probably have to
change your preferences under the "basic" tab to choose to get email
notifications of newsletters/updates)
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Should Golfers Take a Practice Swing? What about pace of play?
No golfer enjoys slow play. Practice swings tend to get "the finger pointed at" as a main accomplice. However, practice swings can be taken in a timely manner.
To overcome many common pace of play concerns:
Another potential problem may be not knowing if a practice swing will be helpful, taking a big (embarrassing) divot, or even just feeling unworthy of making a practice swing.
All in all practice swings are essential for establishing
the way the club feels and your tempo.
A simple tempo key is:
To overcome many common pace of play concerns:
- Avoid wasting time by making practice swings while someone else is getting ready to hit their shot
- Choose the club you need to use for your next shot while your playing partner is hitting their shot
- Limit practice swings to a total of no more than 3
Another potential problem may be not knowing if a practice swing will be helpful, taking a big (embarrassing) divot, or even just feeling unworthy of making a practice swing.
Don't worry about taking a big divot or no divot. Instead,
just make the practice swing to establish your tempo and feel. A simple
suggestion would be to just brush the grass with the club head and focus on
your tempo as the practice swing is made.
A simple tempo key is:
Counting in your head – 1, 2, 3, 4.
This works best for verbal/auditory learners.
Have the feeling of a slight pause at the top
of your back-swing. Typically this sensation works best for
golfers that slice the ball or kinesthetic learners.
Thinking about swinging smoothly. A
smooth swing is great for many golfers, however it tends to
benefit the golfer the most that hooks the ball.
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Why a Golf Ball Slices and What can be Done about it
When the golf ball slices it's embarrassing! The ball lands short of your
intended target. You might have to stop
and look for your golf ball because it's in the rough, bush or trees. It
wastes time, your friends get frustrated with you, and all in all the slice is
just a big problem.
Ultimately the angle of the club face at impact is the main
problem. When the face impacts the golf ball, it is too open relative to the
path that the club was swung on. Potential problems could be your set up or
your swing.
However, it is certain that the club face is too open.
Solutions to help fix your slice:
1. Rotate your left hand grip clockwise. More knuckles should become visible. Make sure to keep
the grip of the club in the fingers, not the palm of the hand.
2. Drop the right foot 2 inches further away from your target line. Close your hips; your belt buckle should point to the right of the golf ball at address
2. Drop the right foot 2 inches further away from your target line. Close your hips; your belt buckle should point to the right of the golf ball at address
3. As you start your back-swing turn your upper body fully
before you start your downswing.
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The Dreaded 3 Putt
You’re on the green in regulation for the first hole of the
day. You lineup your putt and end up leaving it five feet short. You miss the
five footer and are disgusted. You walk off the green with the bogey knowing
one slipped away.
Now on the second tee frustrated, you swing a little harder
and send the ball out of bounds. You make triple bogey and then shoot 52 on the
front nine all because the three putt on the first hole of the day.
Sound familiar?
It's embarrassing to miss that second putt from short range. Why does this happen?
It's embarrassing to miss that second putt from short range. Why does this happen?
3
putts occur because of a poorly executed routine.
The average three putt occurs between 30 and 40 feet. From
this range, you need to have one goal in mind - get inside of 3 feet for your
second putt.
Here's a technique for eliminating the three putt –
Here's a technique for eliminating the three putt –
Read the green from back to front and left to right to get a
general idea of the slope of the entire surface of the green. Then,
(this next point cannot be stressed enough to almost every student, even the
low handicap ones) look from the perpendicular low side of the target line at
the intended line of the putt.
For instance, if the putt goes uphill from south to north
and breaks west to east you need to stand on the east side of the green and
look to the west at your line (re-read that sentence again and be sure you
understand it because this is the point that tour players spend the majority of
there time reading the green from). This will show you how up or down the slope
is, plus any additional depressions or undulations missed from looking at the
putt from another angle.
And on the physical putting routine…
Once you have read the green, walk halfway between the hole and your ball.
Once you have read the green, walk halfway between the hole and your ball.
Look at your target and make some practice strokes
continuously while you are looking at your target.
Now step back to your ball and do the same thing again. Make
three or four continuous practice strokes while looking at your target.
Step up to the ball, set up to your target and stroke it in
the hole.
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Would you like to Learn how to Shoot in the 90’s for the First Time? (Hint – it doesn’t involve cheating!)
Breaking 100 is
about applying just TWO course management techniques and sticking to them the
entire round.
#1 The first concept is hitting the fairway with a club that produces 50% of the Par 4 yardage (assuming the hole currently being played is a par 4) or 33% of the Par 5 yardage. This is the biggest key for golfers that do not break 100 (aside from a better short game!). For example, if the hole is 350 yards long (a par 4), hit the club that gives you roughly 175 yards in distance.
#1 The first concept is hitting the fairway with a club that produces 50% of the Par 4 yardage (assuming the hole currently being played is a par 4) or 33% of the Par 5 yardage. This is the biggest key for golfers that do not break 100 (aside from a better short game!). For example, if the hole is 350 yards long (a par 4), hit the club that gives you roughly 175 yards in distance.
This will help you - Keep The
Ball In Play. (No more lost balls, penalty strokes, embarrassment of needing to
walk back to the cart to grab another ball…)
#2 The second concept is that every hole played on the scorecard is either a par 4, 5 or 6. Instead of playing par to that of the professional (the typical Par 3’s, 4’s and 5’s you find on the golf course), make every hole that's a Par 3 a Par 4, a Par 4 a Par 5, and a Par 5 a Par 6.
Remember, 18 bogies mean you
shoot 90!
Since a bogie is now the real
goal, here are some more specific details on how to accomplish 18 bogies.
On a par three (on the real scorecard), you need to be on the green in two shots. Therefore, find the biggest, open, grassy spot to land the ball within a comfortable distance of the green. That big, open, grassy spot might be 100 yards from the tee box and might be more. Whatever distance that is, hit at that point.
Then with your next shot, use
the lowest lofted club you can (maybe it is a seven or nine iron using a
chipping motion, not a full swing motion) to get onto the green. Now that you
are on the green in two (assuming a Par 3), if you two putt half of the holes
and three putt the other half, you will shoot 99.
For the Par five (again, on the real scorecard) play it by taking the total yardage and dividing it by three. Say it is a 500 yard par five. Divide that by three and you get roughly 165. Use your 165 club three times then. Once you are around the green in three, use the lowest loft club you can to get on the putting surface (chipping motion, not a full swing).
One final note…
For the Par five (again, on the real scorecard) play it by taking the total yardage and dividing it by three. Say it is a 500 yard par five. Divide that by three and you get roughly 165. Use your 165 club three times then. Once you are around the green in three, use the lowest loft club you can to get on the putting surface (chipping motion, not a full swing).
One final note…
If you find you cannot get
50% of the par four distance yet (or 33% of the par 5 distance), play the shot
that you have the most confidence in off the tee box. If that is a 7 iron, play
the 7. Leave your ego at home if you care about score.
And on a personal note,
During my high school golf
tryouts freshman year I followed this plan and made the team by two shots. (I
had only played one full 18 hole round before tryouts!) I only say this because
I know you can improve your game with just a little strategy like I did from my
first round to my second.
Break 100 and love the game
more! Post your comments, subscribe, post topics and questions below.
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For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How to Take your Range Game to the Course
Commonly students of the game will say, “Coach, I go to the range and hit the ball great. I pick the right clubs, I hit the ball straight. Then I go to the course and it is a whole new game. I can’t seem to find the ball at all!”
Let’s discuss why this happens and make a step by step plan
so this never happens again.
The main reason why golfers are unable to take their range
game to the course is because they never PRACTICE playing golf (trusting the
golf swing)! They practice (very poorly) training the golf swing and then
expect to be able to walk onto the first tee, and play the game in the same
mental consciousness as they did on the range when they were training the
swing.
The driving range is a place where primarily two things need
to be practiced:
- Training of the golf swing
- Trusting of the golf swing
Training the golf swing consists of repeatedly working on
mechanics (i.e. shoulder turn, a straight left arm, hip turn, etc.) to improve
the swing itself from a geometric perspective.
Trusting the golf swing consists of going through the pre
shot routine and executing a shot just as one would on the golf course.
Here is the way practice should be utilized to become most
effective for improvement and long term results.
- Know exactly what you want to work on when you go to the practice facility. (for example shoulder turn at the top of the backswing)
- Focus on that ONE key for about half of the time that you have to be at the practice facility.
- After working on the one key, begin to go through your routine and trust your swing.
Here are a few key points on how to trust your swing:
- Focus on the target. Make your target three key things (remember the word PEP)
- Precise – not a tree, but a tree limb
- Elevated – above ground level
- Positive – a mountain peak or the cactus in the distance, never the water or a hazard
- Maintain a balanced tempo
- Use a key word and say it aloud – Seventeen, Ernie Els, Coke-a-Cola. The seven in seventeen (the first two syllables) represents the completion of your backswing, the teen represents the impact.
- Count to four – 1, 2, 3, 4. On one, look at the target. On two, look at the ball. On three complete your backswing. On four, impact the ball. Each number should be said with even time intervals between one another. It may take some 2 seconds to count to four, it may take 5 seconds. Just be consistent with the tempo of the count.
- Develop a consistent routine
- Make your routine some where between 5-15 seconds long
- Have a “trigger” that mentally starts your routine (i.e. when your glove is pulled tight, when you pull up your left sleeve, when your hands touch the grip, etc.)
- Watch major championship events on television and see what the best players in the world do in their routine. Then, emulate it, or even better, go to a professional event and follow one player all day. Their routine never wavers!
Now – go to the range, practice training and trusting the
golf swing and play like you practice! Post your comments for feedback from Thomas Gibbs.
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For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
How to Create a Powerful Golf Swing - TURN BABY, TURN!
The golf swing is a turning motion of momentum and power. It
all starts with a good address position and takeaway.
As the back swing starts, so does rotation, specifically
with the shoulders. The shoulders and arms work together of most tour
professionals to start the back swing simultaneously, and so should your swing.
To make sure that your shoulders and arms are starting the
swing together, try this simple drill.
1. Place a ball (soccer ball to basket ball in size) between
your arms just above the elbow joints, bring your hands together palms facing,
and form your normal address posture.
2. Now in this modified address position, place your rear against a wall.
3. Keep your rear against the wall and turn (to the right
for a right handed player) the ball with your shoulders until your hands come
to chest height.
Now you have started your back swing like a tour pro!
To view the original posting and photos in the Southern Arizona Tee Times, click the link below.
http://issuu.com/go_golf_arizona/docs/satt_dec-jan_2011/63?zoomed=true&zoomPercent=100&zoomXPos=0.017010935601458055&zoomYPos=0.31542056074766356
For more, visit http://www.gibbsgolf.com
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